Nobu’s signature dishes: black cod and miso soup (above), salmon sashimi (below). Photos provided
By Jan Norris
Some big-name chefs are choosing South Florida — and specifically Palm Beach County — to open outposts.
Last month, the news was all about Nobu coming to Eau Palm Beach Resort & Spa. Food lovers recognize Nobu Matsuhisa as among the top chefs internationally, with reservations coveted at his restaurants. His signature is combining his native Japanese cuisine, mostly seafood, with Peruvian ingredients.
It was announced this summer that he’d open his 23rd U.S. restaurant at the Manalapan resort. While Nobu Manalapan debuted in mid-October, the public wasn’t invited. It opened only for those staying at Eau Palm Beach.
Halle Wooten, spokeswoman for the resort, said then, “We are thrilled with the public interest. To provide the best guest experience, we are not taking reservations at this time from outside the resort.”
She indicated it would be “soon” that the restaurant would open to all as the hotel phased in the restaurant. “We encourage everyone to continue checking the website,” she said.
The restaurant takes over the spaces at the resort formerly occupied by Boken, a 12-seat sushi bar, and Stir, the lobby bar.
Eau Palm Beach is revamping some parts of the resort since changing hands this summer. Larry Ellison, the billionaire founder of Oracle software, bought it for $277.4 million in August. The property operated as the Ritz Carlton from the late 1970s, when it was built, then rebranded as Eau Palm Beach in 2013.
Ellison’s affinity for Nobu’s restaurants brought the Japanese master to Manalapan. He has placed Nobu outposts in his other resort properties around the world.
Diners can expect favorite dishes from the Michelin-starred chef’s menus, with an emphasis on seafood. Those include the signature black cod cured in miso, and yellowtail with a chile bite.
Eau Palm Beach’s executive chef Matt Raso will oversee the operations at Nobu.
Eau Palm Beach Resort & Spa, 100 S. Ocean Blvd., Manalapan. Phone 561-533-6000; eaupalmbeach.com
New steakhouse in Lake Worth Beach
Another celeb chef made his debut in Lake Worth Beach last month.
Todd English, a Boston-based chef known to Palm Beach County diners for the former Emko in West Palm Beach, opened Lula’s by Todd English, an Italian steakhouse.
The restaurant, in the former Callero’s on Lake Avenue, delayed opening for a week because of Hurricane Helene.
“We wanted to blow away the diners,” English joked.
He chose Lake Worth Beach for his newest restaurant because “I feel like it’s making a big turnaround. You’re going to see a lot of changes. That whole area is growing so fast.”
The name Lula is derived from the arts district downtown, between Lucerne and Lake avenues. English is well versed in the county: His mother is a 30-year resident of Jupiter and he previously opened at the Gardens Mall with Figs, a small plates bistro.
The steakhouse is going to be a good fit, he said. “It’s an Italian steakhouse, traditional but with my twist on it. Not your average twists.”
English dubs it “usual foods in unusual ways.”
He said he likes to begin with foods that diners are familiar with, then add untraditional ingredients.
“I love rabbit meatballs in a white sauce. Everybody loves meatballs. It’s that surprise element.”
A surprise element can be a hard sell, however, among certain diners, making this “one of my biggest challenges,” he said.
But after getting to know diners in Palm Beach County, he is confident about their adventurous palates. “It’s a mix of younger and older, well-traveled crowd who are willing to try things. You’re able to cater to that crowd.”
English will adhere to the movement “of organic, fresh and simple,” but add his stamp to the menu along with some forever favorites.
“We’re going to mix it up: My signature, the tortellini with butternut squash that’s been on my menu since day one,” he said. “Carpaccio, of course.”
He said he’s comfortable in Palm Beach County, and loved his West Palm Beach restaurant at Emko, in particular.
“It closed when Jeff Greene bought the building for a school. But I got to see all my old clientele from the Northeast. It was great. Everybody’s just like me, 20 years older, but still young. Young at heart at least.”
English is also known for his cocktail program and desserts.
“We’re working on limoncello tiramisu. Yeah, Key lime, too — the graham crackers and all that,” he said.
He’ll soon bring in a jazz brunch and supper club as well. “It’s going to be really cool.”
Don’t expect to see English all the time in the restaurant, though it’s still his comfort place, he said.
“I’m not a happy person if I’m not cooking. You’ll see me cooking like crazy. I love to cook. In my house, in my restaurants.”
Lula’s by Todd English, 717 Lake Ave., Lake Worth Beach. Phone 561-660-8796. Dinner only at this time.
NY bagel phenomenon
The opening of H&H Bagels in October caused traffic jams and lines around the block in Boca Raton. Fans of the 52-year-old Manhattan bagel shop started a line at 5 a.m. on opening day.
The popular bagels are made from dough that is kettle-boiled in New York (all about New York water), then shipped to Florida to bake off as fresh.
The store is the first H&H to open outside its flagship city, and Boca Raton was chosen because the CEO, Jay Rushin, has a home there.
The bagels’ fame was helped by mentions in shows set in the city, including Seinfeld and Sex and the City. Fans had bagels shipped in.
Favorites are the NY bacon, egg and cheese; and Nova lox. Standard flavors include sesame seed, jalapeño cheddar, blueberry and “everything.”
Several other H&Hs are planned for Florida, including West Palm Beach, by next year.
H&H Bagels, 2200 Glades Road, Boca Raton. Phone 561-465-3752; hhbagels.com
Amar growing
Amar Bistro has morphed into Amar Kitchen and Bar and moved off Atlantic Avenue in Delray Beach to 25 SE Sixth Ave. The larger space, 4,500 square feet, will accommodate bigger parties, and a full bar and outdoor covered seating area boost the number of seats overall.
The menu of favorites remains — hot and cold mezze, grilled meats, kebabs, fresh fish and desserts made in-house. To that, owner Nicolas Kurban will add dishes from his native Lebanese cuisine.
In a statement, he said, “We have loved our first home here on the Avenue, but we’ve outgrown the space for Amar.”
He said he’d always planned for a bar, for happy hours, and the new space will allow for it.
A new cocktail program is set, with notable consultant Eric Hemer designing the bar menus. Signature drinks will highlight Mediterranean flavors. Lebanese wines will also be a part of the beverage program.
Kurban will add a Sunday brunch, scheduled to begin before the holidays. Lunch and special events also are planned.
The former bistro space will change as well, and is scheduled to open in 2025 as Gesto, an artisan pizza shop featuring the wood-burning oven used to make Amar’s pita.
Amar Kitchen and Bar, 25 SE Sixth Ave., Delray Beach. amardelray.com
Old Dixie Seafood closed
A longtime favorite market, Old Dixie Seafood in Boca Raton, has closed.
“We’re retiring — because we’re done,” said Jill Schaedtler, a co-owner with Larry Siemsen. “We’re retirement age.”
They were nudged by the city’s move to place their building under eminent domain, as Old Dixie Highway is being widened.
“It’s coming into the property 30 feet, so they own the parking lot and part of the building,” Schaedtler said.
The whole building will be torn down.
“We probably could have stayed open till they tear it down, but we’re ready to retire,” she said.
Loyal customers, some who have been shopping with them for decades, have “called, emailed and left messages when they heard,” she said.
The seafood market opened Sept. 25, 1996 — Siemsen remembered the date. It’s had the same owners all along, with Schaedtler coming aboard in 2000. Kerry Siemsen, another co-owner, retired in 2022.
“We like to travel,” Schaedtler said, and now have the time off for it.
Jan Norris is a food writer who can be reached at nativefla@gmail.com.
Comments