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The Plate: Chicken Milanese
Where: Mario’s Ocean Ave., 225 Ocean Ave., Lantana; 582-3013
The Price: $16
The Skinny: We were hungry, but it was still more than 80 degrees outside with humidity to match, so we didn’t want to stuff ourselves. What were we to do?
We stopped in at Mario’s, started to order a salad, then compromised.
After all, the restaurant’s variation on chicken Milanese practically was a salad in itself.
For this dish, Mario’s, owned by Henry Olmino, who at one time owned Mario’s of Boca at Glades Plaza, brings together wonderfully tender chicken that was perfectly battered and fried, fresh greens and tomatoes, marinated red peppers and creamy mozzarella.
It was perfectly dressed in a tangy vinaigrette that highlighted the flavors, rather than competing with them.
Remember the lighter-than-air garlic rolls at Mario’s of Boca? Olmino and company also serve them in Lantana.
Service was great, too, thanks to our super-efficient waitress, Sue, and we’ll give a shout-out to the good-humored Olmino, who runs the open kitchen, and his wife, Kim, who serves as hostess.
— Scott Simmons

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