Some of the raw ingredients of Feast of the Seven Fishes include mussels, clams, scallops,
shrimp, langostino, calamari and snapper fillets.
Photos by Tim Stepien/The Coastal Star
A secondary dish of shrimp prepared by Angelo Morinelli, executive chef
at Merlino’s in Boca Raton, as part of the Feast of the Seven Fishes.
Christmas Eve feast nourishes body and soul
By Jan Norris
There are as many stories linked to the Italian Feast of the Seven Fishes as there are variations on the fishes used, and their preparations.
The feast, held on the night of December 24, or La Vigilia (the Vigil), is a dinner where seven seafoods come to the table — either in one pot or over several courses.
The dinner is actually part of a fast from meat and dairy foods as part of the Catholic observance. Fish was the alternative food in Southern and coastal Italy, and frying or marinating it in oil were the preferred cooking methods since no butter could be used.
The number of fish and shellfish used is where it’s sticky — seven, however, seems the most common. Seven is often referenced as the Seven Sacraments of the church, though some households serve nine, 10, or 13 fishes, representing other icons from the Catholic teachings.
During the Christmas week, watch for the pasta dish containing seven fishes served at the new Italian restaurant in Boca Raton, Merlino’s Ristorante. It’s themed to the cooking style of Italians from South Philadelphia.
At Merlino’s, executive chef Angelo Morinelli, who is originally from Naples, Italy, plans to cook shrimp, mussels, clams, snapper fillets, langostino, calamari, and scallops in one dish, with a choice of red or white sauce, as a representation of the feast.
“Oh sure, we’ll have it on the menu. We must have it!” he said. “It’s a big tradition.”
The Feast of the Seven Fishes, as prepared by Angelo Morinelli, executive chef at Merlino’s in Boca Raton.
INSET BELOW: Chef Angelo Morinelli
He explained what he thought was the story behind the feast.
“The story goes there were poor people living in a village on a seaport. The family had no money for food, but it was Christmas Eve — and no one eats meat on Christmas Eve. The mother sends the kids out with buckets to where the fishing boats are coming in. The fishermen see the kids and feel sorry for them, and give them here — a fish — and here, some scallops. Another gave mussels — whatever they had extra.
“The kids take the buckets back to their mom and give her the fish. It was enough fish for an army! So she creates a whole feast — in one big pot, she puts the fish and pasta and herbs. It took a long time to eat it all there was so much.
“Today, we chefs try to impress the diners at our restaurants, of course. All use different fish — some only use fillets — but some of the most common are sole, cod, snapper, salmon, branzino, halibut and baccala,” Morinelli said. Some use only fish and no shellfish — it depends on preferences, he said.
Among the most common fish used are baccala — dried, salt-cured cod, served with pasta or fried, either whole or flaked in balls and served with a red sauce. This is a signature fish of Naples and a staple of Venice.
Eels are another favorite, along with an octopus and squid salad. Scungilli (sea snail) marinated salad can be found in a number of Southern Italian homes.
“Different regions have different foods — even different ones in the same region because of family favorites,” the chef said. Families from two different regions may combine their must-haves, he said, and go all out to include all the fish and shellfish available.
“It can be a long meal,” he said, shrugging.
The local fish markets will be ready for the orders, already being placed by some.
At Capt. Frank’s Seafood Market in Boynton Beach, owner Joe Sclafani says he’s very familiar with the feast and stocks all the fishes most common for the meal during Christmas. “Oh yeah — I’m Italian.”
Planning in advance for the buyers, he said, “We’ll have flounder fillet, sole fillet, cod, grouper, snapper — several kinds — and mahi and fresh pink shrimp. Shellfish? Oh yeah — scallops, clams, mussels. Octopus, baccala and scungilli — sliced in the can or in the freezer, whole pieces.”
Sclafani doesn’t make the traditional dinner any longer, he said, so friends prepare it for him. “I don’t have time — we’re so busy,” he said.
Along with a wide selection of shellfish including clams, mussels, scallops and oysters, Captain Clay and Sons Fish Market in Delray Beach will have a number of local fresh fish such as mahi, swordfish and several types of snapper. Wild-caught pink shrimp, squid and blue crab are among the others Reed Brand, son of the market’s owner, said Italians use in the dinner. “We’ll also have our smoked fish dip that they like to incorporate into the dinner.”
Jill Schaedtler, manager at Old Dixie Seafood in Boca Raton, advises anyone planning on the big seafood dinner to place an advance order. “We carry just about everything, though,” she said.
She orders specially for big holiday parties and the Feast of Seven Fishes dinners. “I’ll order special things like calamari with octopus, smelts, baccala — and we’ll have the standards: clams, shrimp, mussels, oysters and stone crabs — and all kinds of fish. We can get anything in if people call ahead. We’re really busy during that time, of course.”
Within four days, Fish Depot in Boynton Beach can have fish on hand for the dinner, according to Chris Bezecny, a partner there. “We always have available swordfish, mahi, tilapia, yellowtail snapper and other snapper, and octopus. We can order eels, and from time to time we have branzino — it’s popular for that dinner. But we have a wide selection at any time.”
Prepared seafood salads and dishes also may be available at area specialty markets during the holidays, and other Italian restaurants may offer the Feast of Seven Fishes as a special dinner package on Christmas Eve; call your favorite to find out if it’s available.
A holiday drink with flair (and flare)
Merlino’s Ristorante in Boca Raton boasts it has one of the top mixologists in the area — Lee Hoechstetter. The beverage manager, formerly of Tanzy in Boca Raton, is big on interactive drinks, and presents one that home bartenders can accomplish and will make a splash at the holidays.
Following the Philadelphia theme of the Italian restaurant, Hoechstetter named the bourbon drink the “LCB Line” after the famous trio of hockey players who took the Flyers to a Stanley Cup victory.
“It’s a smooth herbal bourbon cocktail with Luxardo cherries and a flamed marshmallow on top. The flaming marshmallow falls into the drink and gives it a smoky-sweet flavor. It’s a winner — that’s why the name.”
Here’s the recipe — and Hoechstetter insists that to achieve the correct results, follow the stirring instructions precisely.
LCB Line
2 ounces Woodford Reserve bourbon
1 ounce herbal syrup — see note
¾ ounce Luxardo Maraschino Cherry liqueur
For garnish:
2 Luxardo maraschino cherries per glass
1 marshmallow threaded on long skewer
Pour drink ingredients to a cocktail shaker, and fill with ice. Stir a perfect 33 times. Strain mixture into a martini glass.
To serve: Hang a duo of Luxardo cherries over rim of glass. Lay the marshmallow and skewer over the center of glass. Using a small kitchen torch or long lighter, ignite the marshmallow. Allow it to blacken and fall into drink.
Makes 1 drink.
For the herbal syrup, pack equal amounts of fresh basil leaves, cilantro leaves and mint leaves in a 16-ounce jar, crushing slightly with pestle to release leaf oils. Make a simple syrup using ½ cup each turbanado and white sugars added to 2 cups water. Bring to a simmer and boil for 10 minutes, stirring well to melt sugars. Remove from heat and cool to lukewarm. Pour over packed leaves in jar, shake gently and seal. Refrigerate; use as needed in drinks.
Seafood sources
Captain Clay and Sons Fish Market, 308 NE Fourth St., Delray Beach
561-266-2068; captainclay
andsonsfishmarket.com
Capt. Frank’s Seafood Market, 435 W. Boynton Beach Blvd., Boynton Beach
561-732-3663; captfranks
seafoodmarket.com
Fish Depot, 1022 N. Federal Highway, Boynton Beach
561-375-8363
Merlino’s, 39 SE First Ave., Boca Raton
561-756-8437; merlinosboca.com
Old Dixie Seafood, 7000 N. Dixie Highway, Boca Raton
561-988-0866; florida
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